 | | From: | silver at longjohn.com | | Subject: | What Type Rivets? | | Date: | Sun, 23 Jan 2005 00:18:32 +0800 |
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 | Hi guys I wonder if anyone can help I have been forging knives for
about a year I have made both plain steel and damascus types
and untill know I haven't put handles on because (it may sound stupid
but looking at my knife supply catalogue the sell
Cutler
Acorn
Corby
Loveless
types of Rivets and I wouldn't know one from another and as I have to
buy through the online sales I don't want to have to buy several
different types to find out what is what can anyone give me an idear
of what the different rivets are for and how they are used
the types of knives I make are
Small fixed blade
Medium fixed blade
and Goloks ((type of Parang) Very large fixed Blade
the catalogue shows pics of the Rivets some look like two piece units
some three piece units (its hard to tell fromm small pics)
any help greatfully accepted .
TIA silver
*********************************
Remember never drive faster
Than your Guardian angel can Fly.
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| | From: | alvinj at XX.com | | Subject: | Re: What Type Rivets? | | Date: | Sat, 22 Jan 2005 19:37:23 +0000 (UTC) |
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| silver@longjohn.com wrote:
> Hi guys I wonder if anyone can help I have been forging knives for
> about a year I have made both plain steel and damascus types and
> untill know I haven't put handles on because (it may sound stupid
> but looking at my knife supply catalogue the sell Cutler Acorn
> Corby Loveless types of Rivets and I wouldn't know one from
> another and as I have to buy through the online sales I don't want
> to have to buy several different types to find out what is what
> can anyone give me an idear of what the different rivets are for
> and how they are used the types of knives I make are Small fixed
> blade Medium fixed blade and Goloks ((type of Parang) Very large
> fixed Blade
> the catalogue shows pics of the Rivets some look like two piece
> units some three piece units (its hard to tell fromm small pics)
> any help greatfully accepted .
> TIA silver
Ok you might be stupid but I'm the second-dumbest-guy on r.k and I
say "to heck with all that crap". ;)
Are you going to sell your knives?
If so, you'll need some better advice than I'm about to tell you. :/
I use pins like the old I.Wilson's used basically annealed iron
nails and peen (pein) them into place and file them flat with the
wood (or whatever). Copper wire or brass, stainless steel or
nickel-silver rod can be used too. In the last year I've decided to
stay away from anything that has copper in it because it just turns
green and can even smell bad. :/
The older Russell Green River Works and A.J.Jordan knives had the
same set up as the old I.Wilson stuff from England, just peened
heavy-iron-wire pins.
The two piece "cutler's rivets" need a special tool to counter bore
the head space. I figure a guy could make his own from a drill bit.
I've taken at least a couple dozen factory knives apart that used
cutler's-rivets and I claim they are junk! Every once in a while
I'd actually run across one that was tough to pull apart but it was
a rare one. I figure a guy could make them hold if he was careful
at drilling the holes the right size in the metal tang/handle.
The female socket has got to wedge in slightly then the male has to
wedge in and finish swelling it into place while the female side
doesn't loosen up (move) -any-. Leave me out of that. :/
Poly-urethane glue (mostly to seal the underside of the wood) and
annealed iron pins is my favorite. YMMV.
The others you mentioned are too expensive, I'd rather make my own
if I was going to use any of those methods anyway.
I've got a power hacksaw blade knife in the works right now that I
drilled 5 small holes for 16 penny finishing nails (11 gauge wire at
~.122" dia). Well the holes weren't lined up good enough to suit me
so I "moved" three of them using a dremel and reamed them out to
~1/4" in size. The plan is to use peened 1/4" aluminum rod for 3
pins and forget the smaller holes.
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/2hss6x5bh.jpg
2 HSS 6"blade X 5"handle Butcher Handle
(I had to scan them diagonal then rotated the picture 68 degrees;)
While I'm at it...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/boltholes.jpg
To fill the hole in the end of a power hacksaw blade and put a
pin-hole where I wanted it...
Left- a steel 6-32 nut, the corners needed ground off a little to
get it to go in.
Center- slice of O1 drill rod, the other side is hard to see where
the O1 stops and the HSS starts. ;)
Right- brass 6-32 nut and no prep' needed just mash it in with the
vise. ;)
All three- I picked the side that shows up the best.
Alvin in AZ
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| | From: | alvinj at XX.com | | Subject: | Re: What Type Rivets? | | Date: | Sat, 22 Jan 2005 20:16:48 +0000 (UTC) |
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| > http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/2hss6x5bh.jpg
> 2 HSS 6"blade X 5"handle Butcher Handle
> (I had to scan them diagonal then rotated the picture 68 degrees;)
Oooo... forgot to go on-and-on about something else. ;)
I used my favorite paint remover on those blades-> used brake fluid.
Alvin in AZ
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| | From: | Stan | | Subject: | Re: What Type Rivets? | | Date: | Sat, 22 Jan 2005 20:34:05 -0800 |
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| You are righrt Alvin. Steel , brass rivets are good
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| | From: | ScaryArt at webtv.net | | Subject: | Re: What Type Rivets? | | Date: | Sun, 23 Jan 2005 04:31:12 -0500 |
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silver@longjohn.com
(it may sound stupid but looking at my knife supply catalogue the sell
Cutler
Acorn
Corby
Loveless
types of Rivets and I wouldn't know one from another
Acorn, These are a threaded steel rod with 2 round brass "nuts" that
have a blind hole drilled and tapped in them I have never used this type
because I am afraid I will grind too much off the brass nut and expose
the hole and have a nasty gap where the bolt doesn't go all the way to
the bottom. You adjust the length of the rivet by shortening the
threaded rod.
Corby, I use these a lot I prefer the stainless to the brass or nickel
because they are stronger. But if you don't make a stainless guard it
looks bad. All your hardware should match. So I only use the stainless
when I make knives without guards. Otherwise I use the brass or nickel.
These are a two piece affair and the one screws into the other. The
threaded portion of the female half only goes as deep as the shoulder so
there are no worries about grinding all the way through the face to the
hole.
Loveless, These were invented by Bob. They consist of a stainless screw
and two round brass nuts. The screw is supposed to pass all the way
through the nuts and be exposed when you grind the handle slabs. I use
these a lot also. If you have a drill press, don't buy these, make them
yourself. Get a piece of 5/16" dia. brass or nickel stock and buy some
6-24 or 6-32 stainless screws and the respective drill and tap set. the
only piece of special equipment you will need is a V block with clamp.
(don't fret they aren't expensive unless you buy Starrett or Brown &
Sharp)
Drill down through the center of the rod and tap the hole then cut off
1/4 inch slices and you have Loveless bolts.
To use any of these rivets you need a counterbore, Don't waste your
money on one of those step drills they sell in the knifemakers catalogs.
Counterbores are cheaper and can be found at machinist or industrial
tool shops and all over the internet. There are two dimensions on a
counterbore one for the size hole it cuts and the other for the pilot
size. There are also number size counterbores, ( # 6, #8) These are made
for recessing socket head cap screws.
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